Wednesday, August 18, 2010

One magic morning


I headed to the beach a little early. 
I was hoping to get some nice waves before the crowds and the wind kicked in. We was only going to spend two weeks in France this summer, so I was going to make the most of it. The waves were a bit too small for the fish that I brought that day and the walk back would take to long, this time however it turned out I wouldn't mind too much.. 

It was only a short while that I had sat there contemplating I should always bring a longboard with me, when a young man and woman entered the water. They slid past me on their longboards to a spot a bit further out than where I was. At first I was bummed because I knew that even when a somewhat bigger ripple would come through, the chance just turned very slim that I would be surfing it. But before black clouds could start packing above me, the magic started.

I don't think I have ever before seen surfing that looked so right. They both were in the right spot all the time, it seemed as they were not riding on the wave, but in conjunction with the wave. Cross-stepping and dropknee-turning and perfect trim all over the place.
I decided to go get my camera out of my bag to catch some of it, but it doesn't really do justice to how they danced.
I didn't get to speak to them so I don't know if they were a couple, but even besides that I feel a bit weird that I was there taking pictures cause for some reason surfing like that, whith nobody else out, seemed kinda intimate. 






2 comments:

  1. great pics!! ANd clean waves too!

    Eef
    monsterboards.org

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yep... always bring a logger with you!
    Like the story and the photos (of course!)

    ReplyDelete